Portrait of Beethoven by Ferdinand Georg Waldmueller, 1823      

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Inner Vienna

zum Schwarzen Kameel

The restaurant and food shop 'zum schwarzen Kameel' ('at the black camel') was a regular haunt of Beethoven's.

It stands today - as it stood in Beethoven's day - on the Bognorgasse to the west of the Graben (the 'ditch' that is today the wide street, pedestrianised, that runs west from St Stephan's cathedral).

When Beethoven knew it, there was a counter to the left of the entrance selling fresh meat and local wine.

He frequently purchased food and wine there. There was also an eating area which he made use of.

Today it is a rather smarter restaurant than the eating house Beethoven knew, which serves good food and wine and charges substantial prices.

It is a lunch establishment rather than dinner, and when Bonnie and I ate there, we were alone in not being dressed in smart suits discussing business!

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